Canali suit. Swann & Oscar shirt and tie.

Casual and Chic:

Canali half-lined 3B windowpane SC, which I asked my tailor to iron forcibly into a 2B, as an experiment, since the canvassing is a true 3B, not a 3-roll-2. It works, I’m thrilled — the lapel looks alot better IMHO, it is probably 1 cm larger now. I may try this trick on some of my other 3B’s.

PRL ivory chinos. Albert Arts shirt. Drake’s ps. Berluti Andy Warhol’s thrifted on eBay. Boivin knit tie.

Shoe porn — some shoes I gave away or sold:

1. Di Castri
2. Altan
3. Canali
4. Altan

I no longer liked the patent leather of the Canali, which aged awfully. For the other 3, I came to find their design off-balance, too pointed for my very classic taste. (The only pair I kept from that period are the Corthay Arca which are indeed pointed, but just so unique I just couldn’t bear to part with them.) I also came to realize that pointedness is not just about the width at the tip, but rather a golden ratio between width at the widest and narrowest points, length, and slope, i.e. a pointy shoe will still look balanced if the other parameters line-up.

Canali suit. Courtot bespoke shirt. Faconnable tie. Green Charvet braces. Gray John Lobb balmoral oxfords, thrifted on loboncoin.fr, patina’d black on the toes, sides and rear quarters by Paulus Bolten.

Canali suit. Courtot bespoke shirt in Alumo 260/2 fabric. Tailormail tie. Corthay shoes model Arca.

I seem to catch flak from followers whenever I wear a silvery tie on a white shirt — one follower even said it reminds him of Pierre Laval… So, let’s have a survey: thumbs up or down on the silver tie/white shirt combo?

Bearing in mind, this combo is totally appropriate in ceremonial context. IMHO it’s also staple Cary Grant in black & white photographs.

Canali suit. Lucca bespoke shirt. Atelson houndstooth tie. Simmonot Godard ps.

IMHO Canali is one of those unsung heroes of RTW — they get no buzz whatsoever among e-gents, but it’s actually a great product, particularly good value-for-money when bought on sale.

Canali suit. Lucca bespoke shirt. Tailormail grenadine tie.

Canali suit. Lucca bespoke shirt. Tailormail grenadine tie.

Canali navy birsdeye RTW suit and Tailormail MTM shirt.

Canali flannel suit. Barba Napoli shirt ebayed from shopthefinest.com.

Canali navy birsdeye suit.

Canali DB blazer. Boggi flannel trousers. Stradel’s tie with colors of my alma mater, Philips Exeter Academy. Cifonelli shirt. Finsbury suede oxfords. 

Boggi 3-piece suit. Albert Arts shirt. Canali tie. Les Dandys ps. Carvil oxfords. 

Canali suit. Di Castri shirt and tie (silk & wool).

Canali suit. Di Castri shirt and tie (silk & wool).

3rd Dan pattern mixing: double PoW, very rare!
Smalto PoW flannel suit, Canali PoW tie, Boggi houndstooth linnen ps, Turnbull & Asser shirt with bespoke collar by Lucca, Stefanobi brown oxfords thrifted Chez Albert with cap-toe mirror shine by Paulus Bolten.

3rd Dan pattern mixing: double PoW, very rare!
Smalto PoW flannel suit, Canali PoW tie, Boggi houndstooth linnen ps, Turnbull & Asser shirt with bespoke collar by Lucca, Stefanobi brown oxfords thrifted Chez Albert with cap-toe mirror shine by Paulus Bolten.

A thrifted british look: Canali DB blazer and Kiton flannel trousers, each thrifted 150 euros on eBay. Copper silk tie thrifted at Scavini for 20 euros in Sartena leftover stock when he took over the store. Drake’s silk hanky thrifted 20 euros at NGR clearance sale of Old England stock. Holland & Sherry buttons from Eglé Bespoke. Hackett shirt with custom white tab collar by Tailormail. Finsbury oxblood brogues. Matching wine colored belt by JM Weston.

A thrifted british look: Canali DB blazer and Kiton flannel trousers, each thrifted 150 euros on eBay. Copper silk tie thrifted at Scavini for 20 euros in Sartena leftover stock when he took over the store. Drake’s silk hanky thrifted 20 euros at NGR clearance sale of Old England stock. Holland & Sherry buttons from Eglé Bespoke. Hackett shirt with custom white tab collar by Tailormail. Finsbury oxblood brogues. Matching wine colored belt by JM Weston.