doublecreampinchofshutter said: Hey Adriano: was wondering what is the function of having utilising the manica spostata method of stitching the armscye in a dress shirt. (aka, armscye seam offset). Is it for range of movement? Thanks
I don’t really know. A case could probably be made for greater resistance to tearing rather than extra mobility.
Like with so many other tailoring details, we struggle to figure out their hidden meaning — only to find out years later that there was none, it was only just a style choice all along. I suspect that it’s also the case with this shirtmaking detail.
To distinguish themselves, tailors like to show off their supposed skill by adding extra steps that are outwardly visible, but whose functional utility is actually questionable, when you dig deeper.
Sometimes a style catches on, transforming itself over time into a fallacious indicator of ‘quality’, and clients then begin to presume their was initially some tailoring justification for the extra manufacturing step.
The more time goes by, the more I just care about fabrics and styles, everything else appears to be marketing fluff — even some hardworking artisans fall prey to this internet-legend-building, sorry guys.
At the end of the day, if it looks good, who cares how it was made.
Anonymous said: Bonjour, est-ce qu il y a une marque particulière que vous pouvez acheter en sachant que tout marchera nickel sans retouches?
Oui, beaucoup de marques PAP fonctionnent sans retouches pour moi (hormis la longueur pantalon qui reste toujours a faire bien entendu, chez toutes les marques.)
Dernièrement le 52R de Formosa n’a requis aucune retouche pour moi.
Anonymous said: Dear Adriano, would you mind recommending a couple of magazines or books about the etiquette or men's clothing? I read a lot on the internet but I was wondering if some kind of "Bible" or anything interesting about the different codes exist. In French or English, I don't mind.
Dressing the Man - A. Flusser
Gentleman - B. Roetzel
The Suit - N. Antongiavanni
Anonymous said: Bonjour! Il semble que le seul motif que vous portez est POW (?). Que pensez vous des autres, genre rayures, carreaux, birdseye, pied de poule..., sont ils admissibles pour le monde des affaires? En général, à votre avis, quels motifs sont pour quelles occasions? Sont les uns plus casuals que les autres? Merci!
J’aime tous ces motifs, et je les porte régulièrement, vous le constaterez en parcourant les archives de ce blog.
Pour moi, ils sont tous totalement adapté aux costumes pour le business, à l’exception du pied de poule qui doit être très petit pour que ça passe.
La règle historique c’est que plus le motif est voyant ou large, plus la tenue est perçue comme sport.
Cette règle disparait progressivement, au fur et a mesure que les distinctions ville/sport s’estompent dans le vestiaire masculin.
Anonymous said: "3 pattern challenge another example when no ps" This does NOT work. You have not met the challenge. The scale of the stripe in the tie is TOO similar to the scale of the check in the jacket. And the introduction of the bold red does not compliment the rest of the ensemble in any way. All of the other separates work well together, the tie should have been a navy with a small scale pattern OR possibly a Cape Blue with a narrow spaced red stripe or a red pattern. Challenge FAIL.
The motto of PG is ‘First know the rules, then break them.’ Words to live by.
I’m well aware of the ‘rules’. The point of this blog is to test some of them every now and then.
This fit breaks 3 or 4 rules at once. But maybe not the ones you think. Different pattern/similar scale is a well known rule, not broken here.
The red tie is debatable, granted. I consciously went against navy which was the way too obvious choice.
And I live by another rule: if it pleases me, who cares what the rules say.
preppylumberjack said: Merci, Adriano! I'm 20 and really admire your style. When in your life did you start to dress the way you do now?
As soon as I entered the professional world, some 20 years ago, I started to wear suits. Since then, improving my style has been a long & continuous journey. Blogging about style has been the latest step along the way, as it forces me to keep my game up for my daily selfies. Lots of fun really.